This was the morning we had decided to do “Skytrek”. It was recommended to me by Frank Stoffels from Ballina Automotive and Performance.

You may well ask what is “Skytrek”? “Skytrek” is one of the most popular and exhilarating four wheel drive journeys in Australia. It is set on “Willow Springs” station, which joins the Finders Ranges National Park, and is just 21 kilometres north of Wilpena Pound.

This station is owned and managed by the Reynolds family. They have had it for more than 80 years and have so far withstood the ravages of this part of the world. They have looked after this fragile environment very well but the harshness of droughts has forced them to add tourism into their daily lives on this station.

The Reynolds not only work the station, as they have done for a long time, but also have caravan and camping sites on the front part of the station. “Skytrek” is an additional way for them to eke out a living. The owner told me that they normally run 5,000 sheep and some cattle but due to the prolonged drought, they have only about 1,500 including a few lambs. There are only a few cattle.

This trek took us through majestic river red gum lined creeks, groves of native pine and black oak eventually to the top of Mount Caernavon which is one of the highest vehicle access points in the Flinders Ranges. The eagle type view of the surrounding Flinders landscape is absolutely breathtaking and is a truly unforgettable experience.

To start this trek, firstly you must make a booking and arrive at the station quite early in the morning Secondly, on arrival at the station you are briefed on the trip and given a key to gain access through several gates. The trip will take no less than 6 hours but we took around 8 hours.

After collecting the key, we started our journey at a start point where you reset your trip meter so that you are aware of the interesting points along the way. Each point is well marked with a specific number. The number relates to a description on sheet that you are given on arrival.

We cruised along at a very steady pace while taking in the early sights such as the steep and rocky hill rising up beside us along with the beautiful trees such as the River Red gums. The description on the sheet told us a lot about the trees and in this case, the River Red gums.

Further along and in several locations we came across the Yacca or Australian Grasstree. These trees produce a resin which has had a multitude of uses in the past including the manufacture of gunpowder.

In several locations, we stopped and looked at Aboriginal engravings which are believed to be thousands of years old. They are quite hard to see as the age has seen the rocks become hard and glossy after the engravings were put on. Apparently, this is a method of aging the works.

One of the features of this station is the abundance of water. This was one of the reasons the family originally purchased the station. The water is quite reliable even in this very dry environment. We noticed numerous windmills and tanks on our trek.

We came across a small type of tree, which is known as Bullock Bush. It can easily be mistaken for the introduced Olives species. It is grazed back to head height by the stock as it is sought after by the stock. It does have a time when flowering that it can be toxic due to the build up of prussic acid.

Near the Bullock Bush, we viewed slate that had endured water rippling over it leaving ripple marks on it. This area was an ancient sea bed around 500 million years ago. During that time the landscape changed due to major movements and heating of the earth’s crust.

In this arid area, we came across an old shepherd’s hut that has been restored by the Nissan Patrol Club. It had been in use from the early 1900s until the early 1960s. It was basically vertical pine logs forming several rooms then the gaps filled with mud to eliminate the wind. We do live in luxury compared to people who lived in these dwellings. Nearby is a crutching shed and yards. As this is almost the centre of the station, it is used in preference to walking the sheep back into the homestead many kilometres away. The yards are used several times a year for other treatments.

On our way around, we saw a lot of species of kangaroos and wallabies as well as emus. There is Bunker Reserve which is established for the preservation of the Yellow footed Rock Wallaby. This is an area that has been set aside to not only preserve this wallaby but also to protect the natural vegetation. The whole property is being managed along these lines but the lack of rainfall slows things down but it is visible especially where areas have been restored. As we started to leave the lower lands we saw more of the areas that have been locked out for restoration.

Now the fun was beginning. The Bravo was engaged into four wheel drive low range. This was the case for almost 30 kilometres of the trek of a total of just over 60 kilometres. Some of the climbs were so steep that we looked at the sky as we come over a rise not knowing where the road turned. The track was rocky/stoney and often had deep wheel tracks. This is not for the faint hearted although I did feel that way on several occasions!

There was a brilliant view as we crested most of the climbs. That is what made the trek so rewarding. One view was across to the barytes mine owned by Commercial Minerals. Baryte is often used as an oil drilling mud, manufacture of paint, brake linings, glass, paper, linoleum and the unpleasant barium meal.

We travelled on marvelling at the incredible sights. Soon we stopped for lunch in a little valley. Soon we were joined by another couple form Adelaide. It was nice to have a brief chat with them and share experiences. While having lunch, another family passed by and we caught up with them later on several occasions.

About 11 kilometres from the homestead, but still about 2 hours away, we arrived at Mount Caernarvon. It is 920 metre above sea level. The view of the Flinders Ranges and for at least 100 kilometres around is something to behold. It was so steep at the top and all sides it was like being in a light aircraft. Wow! It is so fantastic to take in this scenery without moving. The only reason we eventually did move was it was windy and cold and time was moving on.

Now we descended down some extremely steep slopes. The Bravo was holding the descent with just engine braking at about 2 kilometres per hour. Several of the descents would have been up to a kilometre. Then a little ascent over a ridge and down again. My confidence was high by now and so much better than earlier in the first several climbs.

Eventually, we were almost back but there was a short visit to “Skull Rock”. It is so named after the comic character “Phantom”. When you see the rock formation it is easy to imagine the features of a skull in the large formation.

So our most interesting and exciting day had ended back at the homestead. If you come this way, it is a must see and do. If you do not own a medium to heavy four wheel drive there are tours that can be arranged. Frank certainly made a great suggestion to me.

The evening was dinner at the Wilpena Resort. Sadly, it was very slow service. I do not know what was wrong but I heard several people mention it to the staff. Prue’s meal was quite cool when served and was sent back for reheating. The meals were nice otherwise but the service was appalling. We did have a nice red wine there produced by Peter Lehmann and it was called “Clancy”.

So ended a fantastic day